Wagyu breeding in Japan

Wagyu calves of the Japanese black breed (Tajima) on a farm in Hyōgo prefecture. They are the source of the famous Kobe Beef, as their meat meets strict quality standards.

Wagyu (和牛, meaning "Japanese cattle") collectively refers to four indigenous breeds of cattle in Japan. Wagyu beef is considered among the finest and most expensive in the world, due to its exceptional intramuscular marbling. The thin "waters" of fat within the red meat give it a unique tenderness, juicy texture, and rich umami flavor. In fact, marbling in Wagyu has increased in recent decades, as producers have focused more on intensive fattening in stables with concentrated feeds, reducing grazing.

In various regions of Japan, Wagyu beef is designated by a designation of origin. Kobe Beef , Matsusaka Beef , Ōmi Beef , Yonezawa Beef , Hida Beef , Miyazaki Beef , Kagoshima Beef , Saga Beef , and many others are brand names that correspond to Wagyu from specific regions with a particular reputation. Below are the main Wagyu breeding areas in Japan, the official breeds, quality standards, and breeding techniques, as well as examples of important farms by region.

Main Wagyu Breeding Areas in Japan

Japan has several regions known for producing high-quality Wagyu. Traditionally, Hyōgo, Mie and Shiga prefectures are considered to produce the "Big Three Wagyu" (Kobe, Matsusaka and Ōmi respectively). However, significant production and reputation have also been achieved in areas of the southern island of Kyushu (particularly Kagoshima, Miyazaki, Saga), the northern province of Hokkaidō, as well as other prefectures such as Gifu and Yamagata. The following is a list of the main production areas with a brief description:

Hyōgo (Kobe–Tajima area)

Hyōgo Prefecture is the birthplace of the famous Kobe Beef. It is meat from selected purebred Tajima cattle (a strain of the Japanese Black breed) that are born, raised and slaughtered in Hyōgo. Only animals that meet extremely strict quality criteria are entitled to the name "Kobe Beef". These specifications are set by the Kobe Beef Promotion Association: among other things, a carcass yield grade of A or B, a meat quality grade of 4 or 5, a marbling grade (BMS) of at least 6 and a carcass weight of up to 470 kg are required. In Hyōgo, and especially around the city of Kobe, only a few certified farms – fewer than 300 producers – operate that are allowed to raise Tajima cattle for Kobe Beef. In total, approximately 5,500 heads of Kobe Beef are produced per year, of which only ~10% is exported internationally, preserving the exclusivity of the brand.

The majority of Hyōgo’s Tajima calves are born on farms on Awaji Island , southwest of Kobe. About 70% of the prefecture’s Tajima calves are raised there, and they are weaned with their mothers at 8-9 months old before being sold at auction to fattening producers. Hyōgo farmers place great emphasis on maintaining the pure Tajima lineage and on animal welfare. As veteran breeder Yoshinori Nakanishi, a Kobe Beef breeder for 40 years, puts it, “the secret to Kobe Beef is love for these extremely sensitive animals, proper care and proper nutrition – not beer as many people think.” Indeed, rather than folkloric practices, Kobe farms emphasize a balanced diet with a mixture of grains and grass and protecting the cattle from stress. It is characteristic that Tajima mother cows in Hyōgo can give birth to 12-15 calves in their lifetime, with the semen being centrally controlled (Hyōgo Agricultural Technology Center) to preserve the valuable DNA of the line. Tajima cattle of Hyōgo are considered the foundation for the improvement of other Wagyu across Japan, thanks to their excellent marbling and high meat yield that characterize them.

Example of a major operation: The Awaji Livestock Cooperative operates a large Tajima calf farm, from which many Kobe Beef candidates are sourced. There, farmers like Yoshiaki Harada raise the calves with the utmost care, ensuring that they grow into healthy, high-quality animals. Only the finest of these, based on carcass scores, will ultimately be certified as Kobe Beef.

Mie (Matsusaka area)

Mie Prefecture in central Honshū is famous for Matsusaka Beef , often considered the finest and most expensive beef in Japan. Matsusaka comes from female Japanese Black cattle, which must be virgin heifers (never calved) and preferably from the Tajima lineage. Heifers are transported to Mie Prefecture at ~12 months of age and raised there for about 3 years under extremely careful conditions. Only ~2,500 Matsusaka head are slaughtered per year, which highlights their rarity and high price.

Matsusaka cattle have acquired a legendary status due to the special techniques employed by many producers in the region. Matsusaka cattle are often fed a special diet that includes high-quality grains (corn, barley, rice bran, soybeans) and plenty of rice or rice straw. In addition, it is common practice to give them brewer’s dregs (beer malt) or even beer as a drink, especially in the summer, to stimulate their appetite. Although some Kobe cattle farmers question the practice of beer, it has been a tradition in the Matsusaka region for decades. Many producers also give the animals manual massages – rubbing their bodies, often with rice straw – to promote blood circulation and relax muscles, especially since the cattle are kept in confined stalls. These care techniques, while not official specifications, contribute to the reputation that Matsusaka calves are "well-groomed" as if they were at a spa.

The result is a highly marbled meat, with thin layers of fat "like clouds" evenly distributed throughout the muscle tissue. Matsusaka heifers are typically 30-36 months old before slaughter, reaching a weight that can approach or exceed 700-750 kg thanks to prolonged fattening. Notably, in 2002 a Matsusaka calf fetched a record price of ¥50 million (~$330,000) at auction, reflecting the extreme demand for its top-quality meat. More recently, in 2019, a Matsusaka was sold at auction for ~¥30 million, continuing this tradition of outrageous prices.

Example of significant exploitation: There is no single farm that monopolizes the Matsusaka reputation, as around 400 small producers participate in the Matsusaka Individual Identification System and supply the market. However, a well-known example of special care is the farm of Mr. Hideo Nakatani, who traditionally gives his heifers beer and massages, winning quality awards. In general, all Matsusaka farms implement an individual tracking system for each animal, and only A4 or A5 grade meat is sold under the “Matsusaka Ushi” brand.

Shiga (Ōmi Region)

Shiga Prefecture (Kyoto/Lake Biwa area) is famous for Ōmi Beef – the longest-running beef brand in Japan. The history of Ōmi Beef begins 400 years ago, during the feudal era (Edo period), when beef from the region was given as a gift to the Shogun . It was so exquisite that for a long time it was the only table beef of the Shogunate. In 1951, the Ōmi Beef Producers Association was officially established, making it Japan’s first registered Wagyu brand.

Ōmi cattle are Japanese Black cattle, raised exclusively in Shiga Prefecture. The region boasts rich natural advantages: Japan's largest lake (Biwa) with abundant clean water, fertile soil and a mild climate. The animals are raised in a rich, natural environment , often on small family farms around the lake, and are fed a carefully balanced feed mixture to develop tender meat with fine fat fibers. The result is meat of exceptional tenderness and marbling, with "tender fat" that melts on the palate.

Ōmi Beef has a rich heritage and tradition, but remains less internationally known than Kobe or Matsusaka, which often makes it more affordable within Japan. However, its quality is at the top of the scale. The long history and care of Shiga producers have ensured that Ōmi maintains its reputation as a meat of exceptional taste.

Example of a significant farm: Many farming families in Shiga have been raising Wagyu for generations. One historic farm is Nakagawa Farm near Lake Biwa, which has been in operation since the Meiji era. This farm has been awarded for the quality of its animals’ fat and was involved in the founding of the Ōmi Beef cooperative. Its techniques rely on natural breeding – clean lake water, local roughage and limited stress – ensuring a product with a “taste of tradition”.

Kagoshima (Southern Kyushu)

Kagoshima , at the southernmost tip of Kyushu, is now the largest Wagyu-producing prefecture in all of Japan. This former Satsuma province, with its subtropical climate and rich nature, raises the largest number of Japanese Black cattle – some 330,000 head, accounting for almost 20% of the country’s total. Kagoshima has overtaken Hokkaidō as the world’s largest producer, and is famous for its Kagoshima Wagyu , or Satsuma Beef . The warm climate with abundant sunshine contributes to the rapid growth of the animals, while farmers utilize the rich local agricultural production for animal feed. Characteristically, Kagoshima Wagyu meat has an intense, “full” flavor and consistent marbling, offering a deeply satisfying experience.

At the 12th National Wagyu Exhibition (Wagyu Olympics) in 2022 , Kagoshima demonstrated its quality by winning 6 out of 9 category awards and emerging as the top prefecture in the competition. In particular, it won the Prime Minister's Award in the Breeders' Organization: three Kagoshima cows were evaluated with the highest score in terms of body type and genetic improvement of generations. This award was won by an elderly breeder couple, 87-year-old Haruo Miyazono and his wife, who have been raising Wagyu on a small, ancient farm for 60+ years - and they were even participating in the Wagyu Olympics for the first time! This fact shows that in Kagoshima there are not only large units, but also family farms with immense experience and tradition, capable of producing champions.

Kagoshima Kuroushi (literally "black ox of Kagoshima") is the local name for Wagyu here, as the vast majority are of the Japanese Black breed. Kagoshima's improved breeding practices – such as selective feeding with a combination of local and imported grains, as well as monitoring growth – result in meat with a vibrant red color, shiny white "snow"-like fat , and exceptional tenderness. The fat of Kagoshima Wagyu is evenly and finely distributed throughout the meat, imparting a sweet aftertaste that lingers in the mouth.

Example of a significant operation: Kagoshima has hundreds of farms – from small traditional stables to modern facilities. Notable is the Nishino Farm in the city of Makurazaki, which has repeatedly won awards for excellent quality carcasses. Also, the already mentioned Haruo Miyazono is now a legend: in his old age, he managed to create genetic lines of animals that won the highest award, confirming that the accumulated know-how of decades on traditional Kagoshima farms remains invaluable.

Miyazaki (South Kyushu)

The neighboring prefecture of Miyazaki is Japan's second largest producer of Wagyu and has built its own reputation as a champion. Miyazaki Beef (Miyazakigyu) comes from Japanese Blacks born and raised in the prefecture, with parents also from Miyazaki, and which achieve a quality grade of 4 or 5 in the classification. Only the best carcasses are awarded the "Miyazakigyu" brand. Miyazaki has repeatedly won quality competitions: it was champion in the meat quality category at the national Wagyu competition in both 2007 and 2012, and from 2007 to 2017 it won the Prime Minister's Award for overall performance three times in a row, an unprecedented feat. This performance has unofficially earned it the title of " New King " of Wagyu for the past decade.

Miyazaki beef is renowned for its deep aroma and flavour , with hints of sweetness, and the characteristic bright cherry colour of the red meat. The animals are raised in a warm, sunny climate (Miyazaki is also in Kyushu) and drink high-quality spring water, which – according to the producers – contributes to the consistently top quality of the beef. The farmers follow similar fattening practices to other regions (intense feeding up to 30 months, etc.), but also place emphasis on genetic selection : famous breeding bulls from Miyazaki (e.g. the Yasufuku line) have contributed to improving marbling nationwide.

Example of a significant operation: A unique case of a farm in Miyazaki is Muneharu Ozaki’s Ozaki Farm . Mr. Ozaki is the only Japanese farmer to give his name to the beef he produces – the famous Ozaki Beef . On his farm, he applies a personalized philosophy: he prepares the feed mixture himself every day, devoting two hours to mixing 15 different ingredients (from meadow grasses to beer malt, corn, barley, etc.), without the use of preservatives or antibiotics. In addition, he lets his animals reach 28 to 36 months before slaughter – longer than usual – believing that this allows their flavor to develop more fully. The result is meat with a deep, mature flavor, whose fat literally melts on the palate without becoming lean. Ozaki beef, although produced on a small scale, has gained an international reputation as a model of breeding art.

Overall, Miyazaki, through the Miyazaki Beef Council cooperative, maintains a strict traceability and branding system. In fact, Miyazaki Beef is often awarded – not only in competitions – but also culturally: for example, it is the prize given to sumo champions of major tournaments, a tradition that honors its top position in Japanese culture.

Hokkaidō (Northern Japan)

Hokkaidō , Japan's largest and northernmost island, was until recently the third largest producer of Wagyu (about 10% of the total). Unlike most prefectures, Hokkaidō has abundant pasture land and fertile plains, allowing for more extensive livestock farming . Its cold climate has given the local Wagyu the reputation of being " snow-white marbled ". Indeed, Hokkaidō Wagyu is characterized by very fine fat veins, impressive marbling, and often achieves very high A5 scores. The relatively cool temperatures contribute to slow, steady fattening and fat with a firm texture (hence the term "snow beef").

A particular example is Shiraoi Beef in southern Hokkaido and Tokachi Beef in the east, which take advantage of the rich pastures. Hokkaidō is also investing in innovation: university research centers, such as Obihiro University, have developed Artificial Intelligence systems to evaluate the marbling of Wagyu, with special cameras that calculate the density and color of the fat in real time. This technology is already used in meat markets and helps Hokkaidō farmers to genetically improve their herds based on data – thus strengthening the competitiveness of their region.

In 2022, it was announced that the 13th National Wagyu Exhibition (2027) would be hosted in Hokkaidō, reflecting its importance as a rising force in Wagyu breeding.

Example of a significant operation: One of the largest farms in Hokkaidō is Farm Tomita in the Tokachi Valley, which combines grazing with stable fattening. There, calves are first free-range in pastures, which promotes their health and resilience, and then are brought into stables for intensive fattening on corn, grain and high-energy hay. The owner, Mr. Tomita, works with scientists to monitor the animals’ physical activity using sensors – a technology that allows for early detection of stress or illness, thereby improving welfare and meat quality. His farm has consistently achieved high marbling scores at carcass auctions.

Saga (Northwest Kyushu)

Saga Prefecture in northwestern Kyushu has a smaller production scale than neighboring Kagoshima/Miyazaki, but Saga Beef is considered to be among the most uniform quality Wagyu . The animals are raised in a mild, warm climate and Saga farmers apply stress-free breeding : calm environment, careful diet and gentle fattening rates. The result is meat with soft lean fibers interspersed with thin, uniform fat , which is characteristically called " snow fat " due to its whiteness and delicacy.

Saga has gained prestige as it combines high quality with stability of supply at a national level. Its meat stands out for its tenderness and sweetness. Importantly, Saga producers place emphasis from the calf stage: excellent care from a young age and specialized fattening techniques that are passed down from generation to generation of livestock farmers. The entire process – from mixing the feed to managing the stable facilities – is carried out in a way that minimizes stress for the animals.

Example of a significant operation: The Imamura family in Saga have been raising Wagyu for 3 generations. Their farm near the city of Karatsu has been awarded the prefecture’s Award for Animal Husbandry Excellence. They use a traditional feed mix with local barley (since Saga is fertile for growing barley, which is also used in sake production – the leftovers of which are added to the feed). The result is animals that grow steadily and produce meat with an excellent texture and “umami” flavour . The family offers tours of their farm, showing how the cows live a relaxed life, with classical music playing in the background in the stables and daily brushing of their coats – practices they believe improve blood circulation and appetite.

Gifu (Hida region)

In central Japan, Gifu Prefecture is famous for its Hida Beef (Hida-gyu). The prefecture is largely covered by forested mountains (the Japanese Alps) and has clear water and large temperature differences between day and night – elements considered ideal for raising Wagyu with rich intramuscular fat . Hida Beef refers to Japanese Black cattle raised for at least 14 months in Gifu. To be certified as Hida, a carcass must, under the Japanese Meat Classification Association system, have a yield grade of A or B and a meat quality of 5, 4 or 3, and must also pass an inspection by the Hida Beef Promotion Association.

Hida Beef is distinguished by its excellent marbling distribution . Its fat forms fine, scattered flecks reminiscent of deer spots – a poetic description often given to its appearance. Its flavor is deep and its fat has a low melting point, providing a buttery texture in the mouth. The Hida region (around the city of Takayama) actively promotes its brand, and in recent years it has gained popularity outside Japan thanks to awards it has won at international food fairs.

Example of significant exploitation: One of Hida’s most respected breeders is Takumi Kato , who has been called the “master” (shokunin) of Wagyu breeding. Kato Gyu Farm, located in Ōgaki City, combines traditional wisdom with modern practices. Mr. Kato personally names each calf and keeps a close eye on it. Interestingly, he uses an old family feed recipe that includes fruit and vegetable peels from the local market (for vitamins) along with corn and hay from the mountain. His farm has earned the title of “Gifu’s Best Breeder,” and its meat often fetches high prices at Hida Beef auctions for its excellent fat pattern.

Yamagata (Yonezawa area)

In northern Honshū, Yamagata Prefecture has its own famous tradition: Yonezawa Beef . The city of Yonezawa was a historic samurai town (seat of the Uesugi clan) and has been known for its cattle breeding since the 19th century. In fact, it is said that an English educator, Charles H. Dallas, who lived in Yonezawa in the 1870s, sent letters praising the deliciousness of the local beef, thus helping to spread its fame.

Yonezawa Beef is produced from Japanese Black, often from female animals (dramales) that have not given birth – a similar practice to Matsusaka. Producers follow a long fattening process of over 32 months. The diet is heavily based on rice straw (a product abundant in the region) and local grains. This gives the meat a delicate texture and a “clean” taste. The fat is white and soft, and the best Yonezawa carcasses have excellent marbling and appearance (only meat of grade 3 and above is promoted as Yonezawa).

To be certified as Yonezawa Beef, the farmer must be a registered member of the Yonezawa Brand Council, and the cow must have been raised in Yamagata for most of its life. Yonezawa emphasizes tradition and authenticity : the region promotes its meat as part of its local culinary heritage (along with local sake and traditional textiles).

Example of a significant operation: A historic Yonezawa farm is the Yamaguchi Family Farm , which has been in operation since 1923. The family says that their grandfather showed Yonezawa calves to Emperor Taishō himself during his visit to the region, and since then they have been known as "suppliers of fine cattle." Today, the Yamaguchi farm focuses on organic farming : it grows its own rice and barley to feed the animals, ensuring the purity of the feed. It has won awards for marbling quality at the Yamagata Regional Fairs, and its meat is highly regarded in local restaurants.

Other areas

In addition to the above, almost every prefecture in Japan raises Wagyu to some extent, but a few more areas are worth mentioning:

• Iwate (Maesawa) : In the Tohoku region, Maesawa Beef from Iwate prefecture is considered some of the best in northern Japan. It has won awards in past competitions for its tenderness. It is raised around the city of Ōshu and comes from Japanese Black with lineage related to the famous Kedaka bull.

• Kumamoto : The Japanese Brown breed (Akaushi) is mainly raised here, as the prefecture is the home of one of its two lines (Kumamoto 赤牛). Kumamoto Wagyu has leaner meat, with a deep red color and more distinctive marbling, but many prefer it for its intense "bucolic" flavor.

• Kagawa : Although a small prefecture, it has become internationally known for its innovative Olive Wagyu . On the island of Shodoshima, some producers feed their Wagyu with dried olive pomace (a by-product of olive oil production). This gives the fat a distinctive aroma and high oleic acid content. Olive Wagyu has won international taste competitions, despite its very limited production.

In summary, each region brings its own geographical and cultural touches to Wagyu breeding. Tradition, climate, available feed and the expertise of the breeders shape subtle differences in the taste and texture of the meat from place to place. This makes Wagyu a product of terroir , perhaps analogous to wine: Kobe has a silky texture and sweet aftertaste, Matsusaka an excessively fatty rich taste, Hokkaidō a cleaner, buttery feel, and so on, but all share the common ingredient of unparalleled quality.

Officially Recognized Wagyu Breeds

Wagyu cattle originated from the crossing of Japanese native cattle with European breeds in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. By 1920, the government had begun a program of registration and improvement, which eventually stabilized four breeds of cattle, known today as the official "improved Wagyu" (改别和牛) breeds. Only these four and their crosses can be labeled "Wagyu" in Japan since 2007 (all other cattle must be labeled "domestic beef" and not Wagyu). These breeds and their characteristics are:

• Japanese Black (Kuroge Washu): It is by far the most widespread breed, constituting approximately 90-97% of all Wagyu in Japan. It is derived from black domestic cattle that were crossed with European working and beef breeds (such as English Shorthorn, Brown Swiss, Devon, etc.) in the late 19th century, but was genetically stabilized around 1944. The Japanese Black is known for its ability to produce excellent marbling – essentially, the characteristic of high intramuscular fat is a privilege of this breed. Domestically, it has several local bloodlines . The most famous are:

  • Tajima (Hyōgo) – small, slow-growing animals with extremely fine marbling. All Kobe Beef comes from Tajima.

  • Kedaka (Tottori) – larger body type and better carcass yields, with good marbling. Widely used for improvement.

  • Shimane and Okayama – other local lines with their own characteristics.

  Overall, Japanese Black produces meat with “snowflake” fat – large, beautiful streaks of marbling in the meat. It is raised in almost all prefectures, but especially in the famous brand areas (Hyōgo, Kagoshima, Miyazaki, Shiga, Mie, etc.). Due to its dominance, when we generally talk about Wagyu we usually mean it. It has black fur and medium-sized horns.

• Japanese Brown (Akagé Washu – Japanese Red): Also called Akaushi (赤牛, "red cow"). It makes up about 5% of the Wagyu population. It has two main lineages: the Kumamoto line and the Kochi line. The Japanese Brown is derived from local brown cows that were crossed with breeds such as the Korean Hanwoo and European Simmental locally. It has a reddish-brown coat and is slightly smaller than the Black. Its characteristic is that its meat is leaner, with less fat and a slightly more intense red color in the muscle tissue. This does not mean that it lacks in flavor – many value the Japanese Brown for its richer beef flavor , as the lower fat content brings out the deliciousness of the meat itself.

  Distribution: About 90% of Japanese Browns are found in Kumamoto (Kyushu) – where the line was developed as an official breed in the 1950s and 1960s. The remaining ~10% are raised in Kochi (Shikoku Island), where a slightly different line (also known as Tosa Akaushi ) exists. Today, Kumamoto Prefecture promotes Akaushi as a local specialty. Although it does not have the intense marbling of the Black, Japanese Brown also meets Wagyu criteria and several carcasses reach A4/A5 grades. Export-wise, there is interest because it provides an alternative – more “fit” – Wagyu proposition.

• Japanese Shorthorn (Nihon Tankaku Washu): A small percentage (<1%) of the total Wagyu. It comes from local northern cows that were crossed mainly with the English Shorthorn beef breed in the early 20th century. The result was a more stocky, cold-hardy breed with short horns (hence the name) and a mauve-brown color. Japanese Shorthorns have less intramuscular fat and a higher proportion of lean meat. Their meat has a stronger beefy flavor and is often used in stews or sukiyaki where its aroma is appreciated. However, because the premium market in Japan seeks highly marbled meat, the Shorthorn did not take off as well as the Black.

  Distribution: The breed is mainly raised in the cold northern regions – Iwate, Aomori, Akita – because it has the advantage of being resistant to cold and able to make better use of pasture. The total population is small, a few thousand animals. However, some restaurants offer Tankaku Wagyu meat (e.g. slow-cooked beef-style dishes) for those who want to try a more “traditional” taste of beef.

• Japanese Polled (Mukaku Washu – Japanese Polled): This is the rarest Wagyu breed – there are only a few purebred individuals today. It was created in the early 20th century, in Yamaguchi Prefecture, by crossing domestic cows with the polled Aberdeen Angus breed from Scotland. The aim was to produce a polled cattle with good muscle mass. The Japanese Polled has black fur and is indeed naturally polled (born without horns). It shows rapid growth and good muscle mass , but its fat is not as thin and rich as that of the Japanese Black. Its meat has a more “beefish” taste and is leaner.

  Distribution: Historically, almost all Japanese Polled breeding was done in Yamaguchi (in the city of Hagi, where the breeding program began around 1916). After World War II, the breed's population shrank dramatically. Today, only a few dozen purebred individuals remain, with rescue efforts by the Ministry of Agriculture. It is virtually unheard of on the market, except as a genetic stock.

Interestingly, in the official traceability registers of Japan, each producer must declare the breed of the animal (choosing from 11 categories) and the four above breeds appear separately. Of course, Japanese Black almost completely dominates high-quality commercial production (A4/A5). The other breeds have a local or specialized role – e.g. Akaushi (Brown) in Kumamoto is used for lean beef products, Shorthorn in northern cuisine, etc. It is also noted that since 2007 it has been prohibited to call any calf that is not one of the above breeds or a purebred descendant of them born in Japan “Wagyu”. This protects both the industry and the genetic purity of Wagyu.

Breeding Standards & Traceability

Wagyu production in Japan is governed by strict quality standards and traceability systems, which were particularly established after the early 2000s, when food safety issues were addressed. Here are the key parameters:

• Beef Traceability System & Calf Registry: Since 2003, the Beef Traceability Act has been in force, requiring each cattle to carry a unique ear tag with a 10-digit number . This number is registered in a national database (National Livestock Breeding Center) along with information such as date of birth, sex, breed, breeder details, all movements of the animal, and finally the date and place of slaughter . At each stage of the supply chain – slaughterhouse, meat markets, butcher shops – the law requires that the product be accompanied by the identification code, so that the consumer can search for the complete “biography” of the meat he buys. Almost all data (with a few exceptions for personal data) is publicly available online: there is a website where someone enters the 10-digit code and sees information such as the animal's mother, breeders, prefectures of breeding, date of slaughter, breed, etc. This transparent traceability system strengthens consumer confidence, as they can confirm the authenticity of, for example, a Kobe Beef by seeing that it comes from Tajima, a breeder in Hyōgo. At the same time, it also functions as a tool for preserving pedigree: in Japan, for decades, there has been a Wagyu Registry where pedigree checks are carried out (it even includes a calf's snout print as a "biometric" feature) to ensure that only purebred pedigree animals are registered as Wagyu. When someone buys a very expensive piece of Wagyu, they are often shown the animal's birth certificate (with a pedigree), which is linked to the traceability number, in the store or restaurant. All this documentation offers a guarantee of authenticity and quality .

• Nutrition & Fattening Program: Wagyu generally grow longer and with a more intensive diet than regular calves. Typically, after weaning at ~8-10 months of age, each calf is sold to a special fattener (i.e. there is a separation of calf breeders and fatteners in the supply chain). The fattening period lasts about 20 months , from the 11th to the 30th month of life, and is decisive for marbling. Wagyu are usually kept in small stalls (often tied or in very small groups) to limit unnecessary movement – thus they save energy and channel it into fat production. Each animal has free access to water and salt at all times.

  The typical diet is very high in energy : from ~11 months onwards, Wagyu are fed concentrates 2-3 times a day, in increasing amounts. During the first months of fattening (11-18 months) the proportion of concentrates increases from ~37% to ~86% of the diet, while the rest is roughage (hay, straw, brewer's bran). From 18 months until slaughter, the diet is ~85% concentrate (corn, soybeans, rice bran, wheat, etc.) and ~15% roughage (straw, grass). A typical amount is up to 10 kg of feed per day towards the end of fattening. In total, each Wagyu consumes around 4-5 tons of feed throughout the entire fattening period of ~600 days. It should be noted that over 90% of the concentrated feed is imported (corn from the USA, etc.), which increases production costs.

  A key role in the diet is played by rice straw , which is abundant in Japan due to rice farming. Straw has a beneficial effect on the rumen of cattle: it absorbs moisture and becomes a substrate for microorganisms that aid digestion. Cattle farmers often say that they first enlarge the Wagyu's stomach (with straw) and then its fat. Also, as mentioned, some places add special ingredients: e.g. beer bran, sake mash, and even olive by-products (in Kagawa) for terroir flavor . The diet varies slightly by geographical region, giving subtle differences in the taste of the meat.

  Livestock farmers have developed empirical techniques such as vitamin A control : it has been found that low levels of vitamin A in the blood during the intermediate fattening period promote the formation of more intramuscular fat (as vitamin A is related to fat cell differentiation – when it is lacking, more fat is deposited). Thus, many fatteners maintain low vitamin A in the diet until just before the end (with caution, however, because too low can damage the liver). This scientific dietary management is an example of how tradition and knowledge combine to maximize marbling.

  A key point in Wagyu farming is that Japan, after the BSE (bovine spongiform encephalopathy) outbreak in 2001, completely banned the use of animal protein in animal feed in 2003. This means that only plant-based feed is fed (no meat-and-bone meal), which improves safety. Growth hormones are also not used – in Japan, the use of hormones in fattening is generally prohibited even for the domestic market, while Wagyu intended for export is meticulously checked to ensure that it does not contain residues of hormones, antibiotics, heavy metals, etc. .

• Welfare & Traditional Care: A happy calf produces better meat – this philosophy inspires Japanese breeders. Wagyu live in small numbers per farm , often family-run businesses where each animal receives personal attention. Breeders check the health of each cattle every morning and evening , observing its appetite and behavior. If one shows signs of illness, it is immediately taken care of. In winter, in cold regions, they even put handmade coats (cloaks) on the calves to keep them warm. Many breeders give names to each animal and consider the Wagyu part of their family.

  The limited space and intensive fattening mean that stress and discomfort must be prevented. That's why they keep the stables clean , with fresh bedding, and often have soft music playing (there are stories of farms that play Mozart for the cattle!). Also, brushing/massage : contrary to the reputation of a daily spa-like massage, in reality the rubbing of the coat (with straw or a brush) is applied periodically to clean the skin and stimulate circulation when the animal is very still. In some cases (as in Matsusaka) a more intensive hand massage is also performed. All these measures aim to keep the animal healthy and relaxed , because it is known that chronic stress can reduce appetite and therefore marbling.

  Wagyu are therefore raised in a regime of almost a "protected bubble". A phrase that is often said: "Wagyu wants to live without knowing that it is a farm animal". That is to say, not to worry about food (they give it as much as it wants), not to be afraid (it has no predators, nor is it put with many other animals), not to be in pain (if it gets sick, it is cured immediately). This culture of respect for the animal seems to be bearing fruit: Japanese producers claim that good treatment tangibly improves the quality of the meat.

• Meat Grading System (JMGA Grading): To objectively assess the quality of each Wagyu carcass, a nationally unified grading system is implemented by the Japan Meat Grading Association (JMGA). This system is crucial in the wholesale market and largely determines prices. It consists of two parts:

  1. Yield Grade: Measures the amount of meat the carcass yields relative to its weight (a standard equation is used). A grade of A, B or C is given, where A = above average yield, B = average, C = below average. Most Wagyu are A or B, because they are slaughtered at a heavy weight with a good percentage of meat.

  2. Meat Quality Grade: Quality is assessed on four criteria : (a) marbling (Beef Marbling Standard, BMS), (b) muscle meat colour and lustre, (c) meat firmness and texture, (d) fat colour and lustre. Each of these is scored on a scale of 1 to 5 (5 = excellent). The overall quality grade is the lowest of the four – i.e. if a carcass scored 5 on three criteria but 4 on one, then the final quality grade is 4.

  Combining the two parts, we get e.g. A5, A4, B5, B4, etc. as the final ranking. A5 is the highest possible (corresponding to above-average performance and excellent quality). There are 15 possible combinations from A5 to C1. In practice, the top Wagyu brands are only marketed as A4 or A5 (e.g. Kobe, Matsusaka do not accept below 4). For example, Kobe Beef requires at least A4 grade and BMS ≥6 . Correspondingly, Matsusaka only accepts A4/A5.

  Of particular importance is the Marbling Score (BMS) , mentioned above: this is a 12-point sub-scale where 1 = no marbling and 12 = extremely dense marbling. The correspondence to the 5-point quality is: BMS 8-12 = quality 5 , BMS 5-7 = quality 4, BMS 3-4 = quality 3, BMS 2 = quality 2, BMS 1 = quality 1. So essentially an A5 Wagyu has at least BMS 8. Most A5 Wagyu, however, have BMS 10-12. It is not uncommon at auctions to see extreme examples of BMS 11-12, where the fat almost exceeds the lean. These often end up in special occasions or luxury exports.

  The grading system is supervised by certified JMGA assessors . Each carcass is assessed immediately after bleeding/skinning (usually at the so-called “ribeye cut” between the 6th and 7th rib). The process is subjective (by the human eye), but Japan is also investing in AI systems as mentioned, to make the assessment more accurate and standardized. Grading data is collected nationally and used by producers for feedback: by looking at the scores, a breeder can select better sires or modify feeding for improvement. Thus, grading is not only a commercial tool but also a tool for improving quality over time.

• Certifications & Food Safety: Japanese Wagyu producers understand that the high-paying public wants absolute safety. In addition to traceability, almost all modern Wagyu slaughterhouses and packing plants have obtained international standard certifications such as HACCP , ISO22000, FSSC, etc., especially if they supply overseas markets. For example, in a large Kobe Beef cutting plant, HACCP is implemented to control all critical points (temperatures, worker hygiene, etc.) and ensure that the meat reaches the consumer completely safe . Japan has been officially BSE-free since 2005 and has also eliminated foot-and-mouth disease (the last serious outbreak was in 2010 in Miyazaki). Today, all Wagyu exports are subject to strict veterinary checks and require a health certificate and – for Muslim countries – a Halal certificate from approved slaughterhouses. In addition, the Japanese authorities have designated specific prefectures and facilities as approved for exports , so that there is control of the process from production to shipment. This entire framework ensures that the Wagyu that comes out of Japan is of high quality and free from hazardous factors .

Breeding Methods & Innovation

Wagyu farming harmoniously combines centuries-old traditional techniques with modern technology. The image of a farmer patiently and devotedly tending a few animals on his farm is largely a reality – but it is increasingly being framed by scientific practices and automation. Let’s look at some aspects:

• Traditional Techniques ("Folklore"): Wagyu has been shrouded in an aura of luxurious care. Many of the famous stories – calves drinking beer, getting sake massages and listening to Mozart – are both true and exaggerated . As already mentioned, feeding a small amount of beer was and is practiced mainly in areas such as Matsusaka, to stimulate appetite on hot days. However, it is not a universal practice: Kobe breeders such as Nakanishi insist that they would never give beer to their animals – they consider it unnecessary and potentially burdensome for the liver. The truth lies somewhere in between: some breeders offer beer occasionally (e.g. a bottle a day during the hottest periods) to some cows that show a reduced appetite. This is also recorded by Western sources as a real but not widespread phenomenon.

  Massage is also good: on farms where animals are housed in small cubicles (so they don't move around much), farmers have noticed that a good rub helps relax muscles. So yes, massages are given , but not every day to all animals. Usually it involves brushing the skin with straw , which the cattle seem to enjoy (like scratching an itch). Some producers (e.g. Matsusaka) give more intensive massages to selected cows, especially towards the end of fattening, believing that this improves the circulation of fat in the muscles.

  Music therapy is perhaps the most "romantic" touch – there is no scientific evidence that classical music improves marbling, but many livestock farmers put a radio or music in the stables because they notice that animals are calmer with a steady background sound, rather than in complete silence where sudden noises can startle them. This has more to do with animal welfare .

  Finally, various rumors (e.g. that Wagyu drink sake or that they get acupuncture ) are mostly myths or isolated cases that have been exaggerated. Serious breeders emphasize that the essence lies in simple, good care : cleanliness, proper food, a relaxed environment. Everything else is more for marketing "storytelling" and less of a real contribution to the quality of the meat. Even so, they are part of the charm of Wagyu.

• Use of Technology: In the 21st century, the Wagyu industry is adopting new technologies to improve both productivity and quality. Some examples:

  • AI and Data Science: As mentioned above, artificial intelligence systems for grading are being developed. In Hokkaidō, the company MIJ Labo has built cameras that photograph the muscle on the carcass and use algorithms to analyze marbling density, color, texture, etc. This gives an accurate and objective measurement of over 10 meat quality parameters. The data is uploaded to the cloud, where it is available to breeders, so that they can use it in the selection of matings – e.g. knowing which bulls give offspring with better marbling. This accelerates genetic improvement that used to take generations, now with a data-driven approach.

  • Wearables & IoT: Some farms, especially large ones, have installed tracking devices on their animals. For example, gait or acceleration sensors that send data if an animal shows unusual movement (which may indicate cows are in heat or in pain). Also, ambient and body thermometers to automatically alert you if the temperature rises – important in stables where heat can stress Wagyu. A Japanese startup has even created an electronic estrus detection system : when a cow is ready for fertilization, her behavior changes and the sensor senses this, alerting the breeder (this increases the chances of successful conception through artificial insemination).

  • Automation in feeding: There are now automatic feeding machines that can be programmed to distribute food several times a day in small portions. This mimics natural grazing habits (a little at a time) and improves digestion. Also, robotic manure cleaners in large stables, which keep the space clean without constant human presence – thus reducing animal stress.

  • Genetic Testing: Recently, DNA testing for various traits has been applied. For example, a gene (SCD) has been identified that affects the fat composition of Wagyu – certain genotypes give a lower melting point of fat (hence softer and more flavorful fat). Breeders use such information to select bull-cow pairs with desirable traits.

  All this technology, however, has not removed the human factor. Wagyu remains an art and a science: the best producers are those who marry empirical knowledge (eye, sense, “gut feeling”) with scientific tools . This way they ensure both high yields and top quality.

• Animal Welfare: Although in Japan the term “animal welfare” is not as publicly promoted as in Western countries, in practice the living conditions of Wagyu are good, considering that they are intended for intensive production. In addition to the already mentioned (daily supervision, cleanliness, hygiene, relaxed environment), it is noted that:

  • Veterinary services are regular. Wagyu are vaccinated against common diseases. If they do fall ill, treatment is done with care – antibiotics are used only when necessary and there is a waiting period before slaughter so that there are no residues (otherwise the meat is discarded).

  • The fact that the average Wagyu farm is small (many are 10-50 animals) means that every animal has value . A typical farmer might raise 30 calves a year: if he loses one to illness or injury, that’s a big blow to his income. So he has every incentive to take excellent care of them. As mentioned, it is said that a farmer “lives with Wagyu 365 days a year” .

  • Some farms implement welfare innovations: e.g. soft bedding for the animals to lie on (instead of plain cement), chew toys for the calves, etc. Because Wagyu spends many months tied up in one place, such interventions help prevent it from becoming distressed or developing stereotypical behaviors.

  • Finally, the minor shock of slaughter is minimized as Wagyu slaughterhouses are local and small-scale, so transport takes little time. Many slaughterhouses use electroshock or CO₂ anesthesia before bleeding to avoid suffering. This all contributes to quality (an animal that is stressed before slaughter produces dark, astringent meat – which lowers the score).

In conclusion, Wagyu production is a detailed, patient process that requires high costs and care, but yields a unique product. Japanese Wagyu is treated with an almost "craftsmanship" approach, where every step - from genetic selection to nutrition and from hygiene to the psychology of the animal - is taken into account. This is why Wagyu Beef has acquired the "legendary" designation and its price is so high internationally: you are not just buying beef, you are buying the culmination of a breeding tradition and care, which translates into an unrivaled taste experience.

Delicious thin slices of Matsusaka Wagyu beef. The impressive marbling (white "waters" of fat within the pink meat) is a characteristic of the top A5 grade Wagyu. This fat melts at a low temperature, giving the meat a buttery texture and an explosive umami flavor.

Important Farms and Awards

Each Wagyu region has its own "stars" – farms or breeders who stand out for their achievements, either in competitions or as pioneers of practices. We have already mentioned many examples when describing the regions. Below is a summary of a selection of some important names and what makes them special:

• Nakanishi Farm (Kobe, Hyōgo): Yoshinori Nakanishi became internationally known for his interviews where he "demystified" Kobe Beef by explaining that love and proper nutrition are everything. His farm has won the Kobe Distinguished Producer Award 4 times – a record in the Kobe Association. He has produced multiple A5-12 carcasses, which have been auctioned for astronomical prices. He is considered a mentor to younger Tajima breeders.

• Miyazono Small Farm (Kagoshima): The couple Haruo and Musubi Miyazono became an icon in 2022 when, at the age of 80, they won the Prime Minister's Breeders' Award in the Wagyu competition. On their farm – an old wooden facility in the countryside – they raise a small number of animals, but with meticulous selection of sires. Their 3 animals that competed showed excellent improvement from generation to generation, impressing the judges. This proved that expertise is not only found in large modern farms, but also in the passions of a lifetime.

• Ozaki Farm (Miyazaki): As described, Muneharu Ozaki's farm is unique in that it sells meat under the breeder's name . Ozaki has been awarded the Miyazaki Breeding Innovation Award for his practices (in-house feed preparation, extended breeding time) that improve flavor. Ozaki Beef is typically rated A5 BMS 11 and is exported to select restaurants internationally as an exceptional rarity.

• Zenkō Cooperative (Shiga): This is an Ōmi Beef producer organization. It is interesting because it implements a collective improvement model : all member producers use a common breeding and feeding program, under the guidance of agronomists. The result is that Ōmi Beef is consistent – e.g. each cut has similar characteristics in texture and taste. The cooperative has won the Minister of Agriculture Award for sustainable livestock development.

• Hida Takayama Farm (Gifu): This farm, owned by Mr. Saitō, was the first to achieve BMS 12 in a competition outside of major cities. It won the Gold Medal for Marination at the 2019 Osaka Meat Fair, highlighting Hida Beef. Saitō is credited with introducing the “1kg a day” technique: each calf was aimed at gaining 1kg of weight daily during the fattening period. This was achieved through special feeding and monitoring, and resulted in extremely heavy and fat carcasses.

• Akune Farm (Kagoshima): A large unit (~500 animals) but has gained a reputation for improving its environmental footprint . It uses Wagyu waste for biogas, has planted trees around the stables for shade, and incorporates cleaning robots. It won the Japan Sustainable Livestock Award in 2021. It shows that even in premium industries, eco-friendly steps are being taken.

• Yasufuku bull & Kedaka bull: Not farms, but they are worth mentioning as legendary sires . Yasufuku Jr. bull (one of the Tajima lines) was the “sire” of many Kobe/Matsusaka champions in the 2000s and is thought to have passed on excellent marbling genes. Kedaka 7212 from Tottori was a top sire of high performance, was widely used and therefore many of today’s Wagyu have some of his DNA. These bulls are bred through artificial insemination and frozen semen, continuing their influence.

In conclusion, the Wagyu industry in Japan is not impersonal: behind every famous meat brand, there are specific people and passionate farms . These “artisans” of farming keep the legacy of traditional Japanese livestock farming alive, while at the same time innovating for the future. It is no coincidence that demand for Wagyu is growing rapidly internationally – over 200% increase in export value in 5 years – and it is now something of an ambassador of Japanese gastronomy to the world. From the lush meadows of Hokkaidō to the subtropical rice fields of Kyushu, Wagyu reflects the variety, dedication and quality that characterize the Japanese approach to food.

Sources: The information was drawn from and cross-referenced with a variety of up-to-date sources, such as the official website of the Japan Wagyu Beef Council, articles in the Japanese and international press (Kyodo News, Japan Times), specialized publications on Wagyu, as well as official Wagyu prefectures' promotion pages. All statistics, names and descriptions are based on these sources and reflect the situation up to 2025.